• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
  • 权利要求
  • 类似技术
  • 同族专利
  • 引用文献
  • 法律状态
  • 优先权
    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to light industry and simplifies the manufacture of clothing. The method of obtaining a set of parts for self. making garments, such as coats, trousers, jackets, skirts, blouses or shirts by the consumer, includes pre-cutting out the details of the garment. Then the individual units are partially processed and assembled with unchanging sutures, reinforced reinforcement pads are attached to the parts, the parts are fixed with fixation elements and additional parts manufactured under industrial conditions, and the parts of the material match the texture and color of the material. , on the basis of the component parts of which, in accordance with the purpose and assembly instructions, the garment is finally made. When cutting out the garment parts, they develop such a size that overlaps several sizes of the finished clothing, mark the values of these dimensions on the parts in the form of additional parts and assemblies manufactured in industrial conditions, use parts and assemblies that are not accounted for pockets, collars, zippers and loops change or change slightly. In the final manufacture of a garment, a consumer measures his dimensions when joining parts into a product and selects the appropriate marking on parts of the product. 30 il. YO XI th oh oh oh
    公开号:SU1724001A3
    申请号:SU884355597
    申请日:1988-04-18
    公开日:1992-03-30
    发明作者:Форшнер Хорст
    申请人:Хорст Форшнер (DE)；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    The invention relates to light industry, and more specifically to methods for cutting and assembling parts into garments.
    The purpose of the invention is to simplify the manufacture of clothing.
    FIG. 1 shows a set of components for trousers with folded catfish without
    butt and sewing thread; in fig. 2-12 — Various variants of an industrial pre-fabrication of a sewing set of trousers with folded catfish; in fig. 13-28 - various in arianty manual final production of a sewing set of trousers with folded catfish; in fig. 29 - finished trousers with folded catfish, rear view; in fig. 30 - the same, front view.

    CJ
    FIG. Figure 1 shows the various components and layers of 1-15 fold-folded trousers.
    In industrial prefabrication, both front halves 2, 4, as well as both rear halves 1, 3 of the trousers are treated with edge stitching 16. This involves processing a small volume (pre-machining). Each piece of cut contains three sizes, with the middle line corresponding to the ideal size, for example, 38, internal to size 36, and external to size 40. Since the parts are finished with a hemline, it is recommended not to cut the excess tolerance width 16a, but leave it for possible size change .
    On the details of the SA pants 9 smooth lining 17 (Fig. 4). The lower edge of the sa 18 is cut inside the edge stitching. These measures concern average volume (intermediate processing). Thanks to the adjustable su, it is possible to pre-fabricate through loop 18a.
    The loops in sa 12-15 according to FIG.
    I and 5 are finally treated with edge stitching, overlapping, cropped and ironed.
    Both front halves of trousers 2, 4 (FIG. 2) are stitched together with one another on the front center piece 12 to mark 20 (production of a small volume).
    From FIG. 3 shows the overlap of overlays 10,
    I1 slotted 21 pockets. First lining 10,11 ironed out, then otglazhivayut pockets edges. Smooth out both filling edges 22 zippers.
    Then, in accordance with FIG. 6 using a two-needle machine sew a zipper 23.
    FIG. 7 shows the grinding of the lining 5 of the pocket material and the lining detail of the pocket 8, as well as the kettling 24. A lining detail 25 of the pocket is formed.
    In accordance with FIG. 8, the two lining parts of the 25 pockets overlap one another and are closed with a braid 26.
    The burlap pockets of 25 with tape 26 (Fig. 9-12) sewn to the slot 21 of the pockets. FIG. 11 is a view of the right side of the front halves of the trousers 2, 4; FIG. 12 - the left side of the front halves of the pants 2, 4.
    This completes the industrial pre-production. The finished product comes in the form of complete packaging to the consumer for independent production.
    After opening the packaged package and studying the assembly instructions, the user first, using the size table, determines the seam of the system variable that corresponds to the required size, so that when grinding, it is possible to realize its optimal size in the piece of clothing and to drive the shape. In accordance with FIG. 13 the fastened zip 23 is stitched with stitches 27 on the quilting machine and secured with a cross seam
    28
    The folds 29 of the sausages are firmly inserted along the marks 30 with the help of the needles 31, then between the folds 29 (fig. 15) of the loops 12-15 for the straps, which are fixed with
    using seam 32.
    The next process step (Fig. 16) is that the lines 33 laid with the quilting machine are placed on the upper edge of the slots 21.
    pockets.
    On the 25 pockets connected between the burlap and the zipper pad 22, double seams 34 are applied (Fig. 17). In accordance with FIG. 18, four short seams 35 are made; the burlap of the 25 pockets is attached to the waist and to the side with the front sidewalls of the trousers 2.4.
    Thereafter, in accordance with FIG. 19, two short stitches are sewn
    belt loops 12–15 dl. sa to the rear halves of the trousers 1.3.
    In accordance with FIG. 20, the front 2.4 and the rear 1, 3 halves of the trousers on the sides 37 are grinded, and the step seam 38 is performed.
    Short cuts of the material as markings provide an exact overlap of the opposite parts.
    After grinding the front 2, 4 and rear 1.3 halves of the trousers in accordance with FIG. 21 close and fix the middle seam 39. All the seams that have been made so far are ironing.
    In accordance with FIG. 22 consumer
    must lay two sealing seams on the edges of the sa pants 9, iron the edges 41 of the sa in accordance with the assembly instructions, as well as the middle fold 42 (Fig. 23).
    Then, the open bottom side 43 of the ca. 9 is sewn in accordance with FIG. 24 on the seam along the waistline of 44 trousers, with two hangers 45 sewn to the sides,
    After that, from 9 to inside
    (Fig. 25), insert the inside of the belt and stitch around on the right side. In this case (Fig. 26), the upper edge 46 of the strip is cut in a circle on the right, the loops for the strip in accordance with FIG. 15 impose on c 9, the upper edges of the loops
    wrap 1 cm and tune by 9.
    After that, taking into account the size of the waist of the consumer, the button 47 is sewn on the cross 9 (see also Fig. 26).
    The bottom of 48 trousers, after determining the length, is sheathed from the inside with a border (Fig. 27, 28); The finished trousers 49 (figs. 29 and 30) turn inside out and smooth out all other seams. Then on the right side, the final ironing of the trousers is carried out.
    The variant of fitting the longitudinal seams to the size and height of the consumer explained above is also suitable for fitting transverse seams and lengths.
    Although the processing process is illustrated by the example of trousers, all types of garments are treated similarly. Differences are due only to the specific treatment specific to this product.
    Thus, the invention is based on the creation of a size-knot key for three sizes, a method for the independent production of clothing by performing a product-specific sequence of operations practiced in industry, as well as a set of components for the independent production of garments of all kinds for women, men and children, which saves the consumer the cost of a complete, independent production of clothes that are not required of him, the use of neither devices, nor machines, nor knowledge OPERATION AND materials and allows for adjustment to individual sizes of garments.
    Due to the variable system of components, a consumer even with a complex figure, for whom there is no traditional standard size in the mass production of the finished dress, can make and optimally adjust the garment himself, for example, correct the dimensions between the waist and hips, chest volume and waist according to the difference of three sizes. In addition, with combined products (blouses, trousers, skirts, jackets), he can find and order the upper and lower parts of various sizes, which makes it possible to obtain optimally fit clothing,},;.,:
    In practice, this appears as follows: a consumer orders clothes based on a variable ensemble of ready-made clothes (two pieces of combined clothes): a jacket size 38-1, a yubra size 40. Now he can make a jacket 36-38-40 sizes in accordance with the individual size as separate
    cut parts have corresponding
    dimensional tolerances. Skirt size 40 can
    be used for sizes 38-40-42.
    It is important that when resizing
    and growth at any time, any product can be unwrapped and resized due to the material tolerance.
    By industrial means, they make in advance only slightly changes in the refinement of the size of the finished dress, the components of the garments, which, on the one hand, involve complex and important manufacturing processes, and, on the other hand, are suitable for
    5 industrial pre-production, in particular automatic. The share of pre-production is approximately 20-30%, including cutting, as compared to ready-made clothing. The consumer has only those types of work that do not require special experience in the independent production of garments and which are reduced mainly to 1 fit to their size, connection (in
    5 particular, stitching, gluing, welding, pressing) and ironing of individual items. Thus, the consumer saves, as compared with the traditional individual tailoring, a number of technological operations, which, as a rule, require special education.
    A big advantage is the use of several, for example two or three, size systems for the appropriate size of the finished dress, since the consumer can take into account their individual sizes, which are different from the standard ones, in the final fitting of the garment.
    0 The advantage of the method in accordance with the invention can also be considered the fact that the consumer saves time and money, without refusing, however, manual work (for example, leisure activities). He gets in
    5, their disposition is pre-intermediate and final processing of parts with fasteners and butt elements that can be adjusted to their size, but which are made by industrial
    0 method using the necessary professional knowledge of production and material and sold him at a reasonable price.
    In general, the technological process proceeds approximately as follows.
    According to separate sketches of clothing items, for example, coats, trousers, jackets or shirts, an additional collection of women's, men's and children's clothes is being developed, and suitable for her
    in style, color and quality materials. Then, from these sketches, the individual technical details are drawn and traced, which form the basis of the future details of the design.
    According to the developed sketches, the main pattern of size 38 is developed, which is basic for all other sizes. They grind the workpiece and, during fitting, fix possible defects. In the manufacture of patterns, the necessary changes are made directly to the main piece. Parts of the pattern are compared with sketches, details are added or changes are made.
    Then, each model is sewn from the selected material to make sure that the pattern and material are optimally in harmony with the finished part. Thus, the necessary adjustments can be made to the pattern.
    Without exception, all technological operations were cataloged, the sequence of operations was defined, namely, separate (in accordance with technological operations) industrial production and independent home production. At the final stage, the draftsman and the person preparing the text bring the drawings in accordance with the assembly instructions.
    In parallel with the development of the pattern, the reproduction of patterns of other sizes and the combination of several size systems into one pattern are carried out in order to offer a detail of the finished dress in all running sizes. After acceptance and control, sets of sizes are accumulated, for example, on a pattern copying device. Thus, depending on the requested dimensions, the corresponding parts are copied and cut out on the cutting table. Parts cut handle edge line, serves special parts for other technological operations, such as razuguyuzhivaniya boring or grinding pockets slots. Small finished parts can be supplied pre-assembled, such as belt loops, sewn finishes, pleating pleats, collars, cuffs, embroidery and split seams, pockets, and corsages.
    All components, including buttstocks, such as przh, zippers, buttons and bortovka, as well as the corresponding assembly instructions are placed as a set in a package ready for shipment.
    A consumer who orders this kind of packaging from the catalog or selects in special warehouses can then, following the instructions given by the instruction, immediately start grinding the parts. For this, he needs only a minimum of knowledge that he can master, having familiarized himself with the traditional methods of individual tailoring. He does not need special devices or premises. It is enough to have a simple sewing machine, the control of which can be learned without any problems.
    The method according to the invention combines the advantages of industrial manufacture with the advantages of individual tailoring. With minimal cost and a well-fitting form, the consumer’s own share in tailoring is 70-80%. This makes it possible to independently produce fashionable clothes with little time and cost.
    权利要求:
    Claims (1)
    [1]
    Invention Formula
    The method of obtaining a set of parts for the independent manufacture of garments, in which the parts of the garment are pre-cut, is partially processed and assembled separate nodes with uninterrupted stitches, fix reinforcement pads to parts of the body, provide fixing parts and additional parts to the parts. industrial conditions, and then a piece of clothing, in accordance with the details of the cut, texture and color of the material, is completed in the form of a package, on the basis of whose components in accordance Even with the purpose and assembly instructions, a garment is finally formed, characterized in that, in order to simplify the manufacture of clothes, when cutting out the garment parts, they are designed in a size that overlaps several sizes of ready-made garments, and mark the values of these sizes in details. parts and assemblies manufactured under industrial conditions use parts and assemblies that do not change or change insignificantly in the dimensions of ready-made clothes, for example, pockets, collars, Molokia and loops, while in the final production of a garment, the consumer measures its dimensions and, when connecting parts into the product, selects the appropriate marking on the parts.
    Fig.12.
    FIG. 13
    Fig.M
    Phage. sixteen
    FIG. 18
    FIG. 17
    19
    Fig.21
    FIG. 29
    FIG. thirty
    类似技术:
    公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题
    SU1724001A3|1992-03-30|Method of producing set of parts for self-made garments
    US4635301A|1987-01-13|Upper body garment construction
    CA1137045A|1982-12-07|Method of making dressses for dolls and the likeand product obtained by this method
    FI88248C|1993-04-26|Process for producing an industrially manufactured product series for self-making of garments and component series for producing garments
    CA1303572C|1992-06-16|Garment kit and method of assembly thereof
    RU31924U1|2003-09-10|Trousers
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    Farrell-Beck et al.1986|Sewing techniques in women's outerwear, 1800-1869
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    Dos Santos2015|A guide to modern tailoring concepts: A practical outline to some new ideas and techniques
    Coffin1998|Shirtmaking: Developing skills for fine sewing
    Armstrong2022|Short cuts in home sewing
    Speece1973|EC73-486 Plotting Pleats for Skirts
    RU1790907C|1993-01-30|Method for producing underlapels, half-belts, belts and collar
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    US3473169A|1969-10-21|Method for converting skirt to culottes
    Good1995|Apparel Manufacturing Glossary iiior Application Protocol
    RU2170049C1|2001-07-10|Transformable clothing manufacture method
    Manikowske1981|New Life for Old Clothes
    Scales1953|Sew... it's fun [1953]
    Strickland2013|A tailoring manual
    Speece1974|EC74-493 Menswear... Front & Back Interfacing for Jackets
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    EP0262700B1|1992-06-24|
    DE3779989D1|1992-07-30|
    EP0262700A2|1988-04-06|
    YU15090A|1994-05-10|
    YU153687A|1993-11-16|
    PL267366A1|1988-09-01|
    CS607187A2|1991-10-15|
    ES2033807T3|1993-04-01|
    WO1988001140A1|1988-02-25|
    AT77539T|1992-07-15|
    BG49815A3|1992-02-14|
    US4860900A|1989-08-29|
    PL157506B1|1992-06-30|
    HUT60607A|1992-10-28|
    US4995514A|1991-02-26|
    EP0262700A3|1989-03-08|
    DD261521A5|1988-11-02|
    EP0277215A1|1988-08-10|
    GR3005031T3|1993-05-24|
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    法律状态:
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    DE3628132|1986-08-19|
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